Sunday, June 1st, 2008

How a Pool Cue Is Crafted

A pool/billiards cue stick with parts labeled.

Image via Wikipedia

The most essential piece of equipment for playing billiards is the cue stick, often simply called the cue. It is a tapered stick typically 58 inches in length and with a range of between 18 and 21 ounces. They are primarily constructed of wood, but occasionally covered with other materials such as graphite or fiberglass. The length and weight may be altered to craft a custom cue stick for a professional player.

There are three styles of of cue-sticks. One sort is the single piece cuestick. These are typically for the casual player and frequently stocked in pool and billiards halls. They have a uniform taper and standard length and weight. A different sort is the two-piece pool cue. This is typically divided in the middle and screwed together. The two-piece pool cue suits easy transport and storage in a case. The third type is also a two piece cue stick, but the joint is not in the middle, but further down on the butt, about 1/3 ranging from the end.

There are a range of components or pieces to a cuestick, every one of which you should familiarize yourself with. The shaft is the smaller, tapered end of the a cue stick, and the butt is the wider, heavier end. At what time using a two-piece cue stick, the pieces are attached at a joint which is construct up of a screw coming ranging from the butt that is screwed into the shaft. The joints can be crafted ranging from a myriad of materials from plastic, wood or aluminum to bone or antlers for the purpose of more expensive sticks. It serves the same purpose, to join the two pieces together.

To the shaft, you will find the ferrule and the tip. The ferrule is the piece of white plastic immediately below the tip. It may be construct of different materials. Most commonly it’s plastic for the objective of the casual player and brass for the more experienced player. The tips come in a variety of sizes and shapes, and can be custom rounded to suit your needs. Tips are primarily constructed of leather and are available in a range of hardness grades.

The butt of the cue is at what location one can find your weight. Whether you play with an 18 oz. cuestick or a 21 oz. cue stick, the weight is all in the butt. The cue butt is frequently the area that is most decorative. Plenty of sticks have carvings, leather grips and various different inlaid objects that appeal to the eye. They add nothing to your leisure sport but a sense of pride at what time you pull out your dazzling a cue stick and start a recreational diversion.

Lastly, and frequently the most overlooked piece of a billiards cue is the bumper. This is a round rubber piece attached to the butt. It offers protection at what time you place your cue down and also reduced the vibrations that travel through the cue on impact. On pricier cues, the bumper is made of leather.

Choose a cue stick that is comfortable to play with, not for the purpose of its appearance. You want quality, not a display piece.

Zemanta Pixie
Saturday, May 31st, 2008

How To Care For Your Cue Stick

Longoni Pool Cues

Image via Wikipedia

Invest in a Hard Case to Protect Your Cue Stick

The firstly thing you should do is invest in a case. This will protect the a cue stick from humidity and falls or tip damage. Appreciate the fact that investing in a case will save you these hassles down the road. A hard case, however cumbersome it may seem at times, is better than a soft case. Be sure to store your case upright. Now that it’s safely stored in a protective case, do not forget to to always wash your hands ahead of you play and several hours after play.

Moisture and Dampness Can Damage Cue Sticks

Moisture is the biggest cause in your cue warping. Keep your cuestick away from damp or humid places. This minimizes the chances of your a cue stick warping over time. That said, keep in mind: since wood is a natural material, there is no foolproof way to 100% guarantee you cue stick will not warp at all. They will all warp a little or more over time.

Joint Protectors are a Good Idea for Multi-Piece Cue Sticks

Joint protectors should be considered if you are using a multi-piece a cue stick. These will assist in preventing moisture in entering by the shaft and butt of the a cue stick. They screw into either end and will keep the moisture out and prevent warping.

Slight Warps are Normal in Cue Sticks

If by chance your a cue stick does get warped, a slight warp is nothing to overly worry about. Just be mindful when you play your game to position the cuestick the same for the objective of every shot. You want the warp on the vertical plane not the horizontal. The best way to check your cue for the purpose of warping is by “sighting”. Look straight down within the butt to the shaft, just as you would sight a rifle. The warp will be obvious, and one can then decide your positioning for your executions.

Severely Warped Cue Sticks

If you find the warp to be severe and you are unable to bend it back into shape and cannot adjust your positioning, consider buying a new cue stick.

Attending to the Cue Stick Tip

After taking the precautions to avoid warping, turn your attention to the cuestick tip. The tip on your new a cue stick may be shiny, smooth, and somewhat flat at what time you firstly get your a cue stick. You may shape the tip to desired roundness, but several novices just play with it the way it is. In either case, how you play and in ways you stroke your cue will determine the final shape of your tip and constant shaping will wear your tip down very fast.

There is an easy manner of applying it for replacing tips if you find you need to do that. There are a number of things you will need to have on hand ahead of you begin. Be sure to have the new tip, a razor blade, glue, preferably SuperGlue Gel or Duro-gel, Loctite, 60-80 grip sandpaper, 400-600 grit sandpaper and some paper towels.

To start, remove what is the definition of left of the old tip using the razor blade. Be sure not to cut into the wood. Using the 60-80 grit sandpaper, sand the top of the ferrule (white plastic piece and the end of your a cue stick, at times this is a brass piece). Then sand the bottom of the new tip with the same sandpaper until it’s rough.

Attaching a New Tip to Your Cue Stick

Now that the tip and surfaces are prepared, you will attach the new tip. Apply a light coat of glue to both the ferrule and the bottom of the new tip. Only a small amount is needed on both pieces. Next, carefully center the tip onto the ferrule and hold in place for the objective of about a minute. At what time the glue has set, carefully use the razor to remove any excess over hang so the tip is flush with the ferrule.

To finish up, wet the sides of the tip slightly and burnish using the 400-600 sandpaper. You may also use the same paper to shape the tip to your desired radius. Allow the glue to dry completely ahead of using for play. You’re ready to go!

Keep Your Cuestick Clean

It’s also important to continue your cue stick clean. After playing, you will notice a build-up of chalk on the tip. If you play using hand chalk, that will also be evident on the shaft. After play, it is a good idea to do not forget to to always wipe down your stick. Any experienced billiard shooter will attest that nothing is worse and harms your shot more than a sticky cue shaft.

The buildup of sticky residue might accumulate over time if your pool cue shaft is not cleaned properly. You can help slow the buildup of sticky residue by always wiping a pool or billiards cue stick shaft down with a cotton cloth after play.

On Using a Damp Cloth to Clean a Cue Stick

A person can also use a slightly damp cloth, but it’s imperative that you completely and thoroughly dry the pool cue stick shaft just after wiping it clean to prevent warping.

Play With Clean Hands

This is an obvious consideration, but players should always play with cleanly washed hands.

Zemanta Pixie
Saturday, May 31st, 2008

Break Cues - Light Or Heavy?

Longoni Pool Cues

Image via Wikipedia

Beginning a pool game with a good break is of the utmost importance in the game. Ideally, a good break is one in which the balls scatter and none are left touching another. initially, one would expect to use a heavy weighted cue for the break. Theoretically, that would make sense, to get the most power for your break. first, one must understand the weights of different cue sticks.  The average weight would be 19 oz.  Thus making a light cuestick 18 oz and a heavy cue 20 oz. or more. Past experience has shown me that it really comes down to personal preference. However, many argue that it is all about physics, so let’s take a look at that.

Break cue weight ought to be based on basic physics.  The speed of the cueball is what matters at what time breaking. A simple equation to remember is mass times velocity.  the mass is referring to the object being propelled. Said object would be a 6 oz cue ball in this case. the velocity is determined by the way in which the cue is propelled. {{the velocity is the way in which we propel the cue}}. Thus, the main concern is the speed at which the cue ball is propelled more than the power behind it.

The use of a heavy cue results more force which creates more momentum. However, a light cue will allow you more acceleration. After taking all this into consideration, they both seem to have their advantages, which once again, leaves it to personal preference. The force behind your shot will not only be determined by the weight of the cue, but by the players style and positioning. Regardless of the weight being used, the power comes more from a solid contact on the cue and proper grip and stance.

One suggestion is not to make any assumption that the break has to be made with one or the other. Try them both, with slight alterations in your stance and positioning. you will find which is most comfortable and effectual. As you play and try experimenting with the game,  your breaks will be executed with increasing effectectiveness,  whatever basis you use to play your. Stay mindful of the basics as you pick up new techniques. Find your comfortable position and grip when breaking and master that approach before attempting to become a power breaker.